What Is Sucre?

Sucre is Bolivia's constitutional capital (La Paz is the seat of government in practice — Sucre retains the Supreme Court and the historic status of capital from independence). At 2,810 metres above sea level, it sits in a fertile valley in the Bolivian Andes — lower than La Paz (3,640m) and significantly more comfortable for acclimatisation. The city of 300,000 is dominated by whitewashed colonial architecture so consistent and well-preserved that the entire centre was inscribed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1991. It is called La Ciudad Blanca — the White City — and the nickname is entirely accurate.

The Colonial Architecture

Walking Sucre's centre is like walking through an intact 17th and 18th-century city — the white walls, red tile roofs, wooden balconies, and elaborately carved stone doorways of the Spanish colonial period preserved in remarkable completeness. The Casa de la Libertad, where Bolivian independence was declared in 1825 and where the original Declaration of Independence is displayed, is the city's most historically significant building. The Cathedral and the Metropolitan Museum contain impressive collections of colonial religious art. The Convent of San Felipe Neri offers rooftop views over the white city that are among the most atmospheric urban panoramas in Bolivia.

The Dinosaur Footprints

On the outskirts of Sucre, the Cal Orcko limestone cliff face contains the largest and most diverse collection of dinosaur footprints in the world — over 5,000 individual prints from 294 different dinosaur species, including the longest continuous dinosaur trackway ever found (a T. rex ancestor, 347 metres). The discovery was made in 1994 when the Fancesa cement factory expanded its quarrying operations. A visitor centre and viewing platforms have been constructed; guided tours run throughout the day from the Parque Cretácico. The experience of seeing a sheer limestone cliff covered with thousands of clearly defined dinosaur footprints — some belonging to species otherwise unknown to science — is genuinely extraordinary.

Chocolate in Sucre

Bolivia is, unexpectedly, one of the world's finest chocolate-producing countries — the native cacao varieties of the Bolivian Amazon (particularly the Nacional and wild Beniano varieties) are among the rarest and most prized in the world. Sucre has become the centre of Bolivia's artisanal chocolate industry, with several excellent producers offering factory tours, tastings, and workshops. Chocolate Para Ti, founded in the 1970s, was the first; Para Ti and Takarita are the best-regarded current producers. A chocolate tour and tasting is one of the most genuinely enjoyable afternoon activities available in Sucre.

Sucre vs La Paz Bolivia

The comparison most travellers consider. La Paz is more dramatic — the world's highest administrative capital at 3,640m, the extraordinary Witches' Market, the teleférico (cable car) system over the city, and the proximity to Lake Titicaca and the Bolivian Altiplano. Sucre is more beautiful and more pleasant as a base — the altitude is lower, the streets are more attractive, and the city is calmer. Most Bolivia itineraries of a week or more include both. For a 4-day Bolivia stopover, Sucre offers a more relaxed and visually rewarding experience than La Paz alone.

Tarabuco Market

Every Sunday, the village of Tarabuco (65km from Sucre) hosts one of Bolivia's most authentic and colourful weekly markets — Yampara indigenous communities descend from the surrounding hills in traditional dress (the pututu helmets and coloured ponchos of the Yampara are among the most distinctive in South America) to sell textiles, food, and crafts. The textiles here — woven on backstrap looms using traditional Andean techniques unchanged for centuries — are among the finest in Bolivia. Tours from Sucre depart at 8am and return by 3pm; most include lunch at a Tarabuco restaurant.