The Inca citadel larger than Machu Picchu — four days through the Apurímac Canyon with almost no other visitors
Choquequirao is the Inca citadel that most of the world doesn't know exists. Larger in area than Machu Picchu, set in a position of even more dramatic mountain scenery above the Apurímac Canyon, and visited by only 30 people per day — compared to 4,000 at Machu Picchu. The trek to reach it is genuinely demanding: a descent of 1,500 metres into one of the world's deepest gorges, followed by a 1,500-metre climb to the ruins. But the reward is extraordinary — standing alone at an Inca citadel of this magnitude, with condors overhead and the canyon dropping away on three sides, is one of the great travel experiences remaining in South America.
Depart Cusco at 4am for the 4-hour transfer to Cachora trailhead (2,850m). Brief orientation and equipment check. Begin the trek immediately — descend 1,500m through scrub and dry forest to the Apurímac River crossing at Playa Rosalina. Cross the river and climb steeply to Chiquisca campsite (2,900m). Total: 14km, approximately 6 hours walking. The canyon is already extraordinary — the scale of the walls above you and the turquoise river below.
Climb from Chiquisca through increasingly lush cloud forest, passing the small settlement of Marampata (3,400m) where basic food and water is available. The final hour of climbing brings you to the Choquequirao campsite (3,033m) with the first views of the ruins above. Spend the remaining daylight (usually 3–4 hours) exploring the main plaza, the Temple of the Sun, and the upper residential district. Overnight at camp.
The entire day to explore the ruins at your own pace. Morning: the main ceremonial complex, the Inca Temple, and the astronomical observatory section with views of sunrise over the eastern Andes. Mid-morning: the 45-minute descent to the Llama Terraces — the site's most unique and recently uncovered feature (white stone llama inlays on the terrace walls, unique in all of Inca archaeology). Afternoon: the unexcavated jungle sections on the site perimeter where walls emerge from the forest. Overnight at camp.
Early 4am start for the long return — retracing the route in reverse. Descend to the Apurímac, cross the river, and climb back out of the canyon to Cachora. The return journey typically takes 8–9 hours of walking. Transfer back to Cusco arriving late evening.
The Apurímac Canyon floor reaches 35–40°C during the day in dry season. The descent and river crossing sections must be completed before 11am to avoid the worst heat. Above 3,000m it is cool and comfortable. Pack accordingly — thin layers for the canyon, warm layers for the high sections.
Two nights at wild campsites (Chiquisca and Choquequirao). Tents and mats provided. Outhouse facilities at both sites. No showers. Cold water available from streams (treat with tablets or filter). Cold at altitude (0–5°C overnight at the ruins campsite).
You will likely see 0–5 other trekkers on the trail each day during most of the year. At the ruins, expect no more than 20–30 people on any given day. This is the closest thing to a private Inca citadel experience available in Peru.
The Apurímac Canyon is one of the finest condor-watching locations in Peru — the thermal columns rising from the canyon floor are ideal. Sightings from the high passes on Days 1 and 4 are very common mid-morning. Spectacled bear signs (scratch marks, droppings) are found regularly in the cloud forest above Marampata.