Arriving at Ezeiza Airport

Ezeiza International Airport (EZE) is 35km from the city centre — roughly 40–55 minutes depending on traffic. The Tienda León bus is the most reliable option ($12–15, departs every 30 minutes to the Retiro bus terminal). Uber and Cabify operate from Ezeiza — pre-book in the app before you land and it will be waiting. Avoid random taxi touts in the arrivals hall.

The Currency Situation

Argentina has a complex exchange rate system. In 2026, the official and parallel exchange rates remain divergent — visitors who bring USD cash can exchange at a significantly better rate than using a card at the official rate. Exchange at official casas de cambio (exchange offices) in the Florida pedestrian street area or via the hotel concierge. Do not exchange at the airport. ATM fees are high and withdrawal limits are low — minimise ATM use.

Which Neighbourhood to Stay In

Palermo Soho or Hollywood for the best restaurant access, independent boutiques, and the most interesting streets. San Telmo for history, tango, and the famous Sunday market. Recoleta for grand architecture, the famous cemetery, and the most elegant hotels. All are excellent choices for first-timers — Palermo is the most practical.

Getting Around

The Subte (metro) covers the main tourist areas and costs $0.15 per ride with a SUBE card (buy at any metro station, load with cash). Uber and Cabify are widely available, safe, and extremely cheap. Walking is practical in Palermo, San Telmo, and Recoleta — the neighbourhoods are compact and interesting on foot.

Tango: Where to Actually See It

Avoid the tourist tango dinner shows — expensive and often choreographed for tourists rather than authentic. Instead, visit a milonga (authentic tango dance event). La Catedral in Almagro is the most atmospheric. Confitería Ideal near the centre is a beautiful Art Nouveau venue. Arrive after 11pm — the best dancing starts at midnight. Most milongas offer beginner lessons earlier in the evening.

The Food

The two non-negotiable Buenos Aires food experiences: a proper parrilla dinner (grass-fed Argentine beef, chimichurri, Malbec wine — allow 3 hours, this is not fast food) and medialunas with coffee at a traditional café. Don Julio in Palermo is consistently rated among the finest parrillas in South America — book weeks ahead. For a more local experience, explore the parilla restaurants away from Palermo's tourist streets.