The Two Routes
Patagonia's self-drive universe divides into two iconic road corridors. The Ruta 40 — Argentina's legendary highway, running the length of the country from the Bolivian border to Tierra del Fuego — passes through the Patagonian section between Bariloche and El Calafate (approximately 1,400km), traversing the most magnificent steppe landscapes in the region. The Carretera Austral — Chile's southern highway, running 1,240km from Puerto Montt to Villa O'Higgins — is one of the world's great driving experiences: a partially paved, partially gravel road through fjords, lakes, rainforest, and hanging glaciers that makes the Ruta 40's steppe look straightforward by comparison. Both routes require 2–3 weeks to drive properly; combining them in a loop (crossing the border at multiple points) requires 3–4 weeks.
Ruta 40 Argentina Road Trip: The Key Stops
Bariloche: The gateway — a Swiss-influenced lake and mountain city with excellent infrastructure and the most popular ski resort in South America (Cerro Catedral). El Bolsón: A counterculture mountain town known for craft beer, local produce markets, and hiking in the Río Azul valley. Gobernador Costa → Perito Moreno: The most remote section of Ruta 40 — 400km of unpaved Patagonian steppe with almost no services. Carry 3 days' food and water. Fuel in every town you pass through. El Chaltén: The trekking capital — Fitz Roy and Cerro Torre trailheads, free park, no permits. El Calafate: The Perito Moreno glacier gateway and the southern terminus of the Ruta 40 Patagonia section.
Carretera Austral Chile Road Trip
The Carretera Austral requires a 4WD vehicle with high clearance and good ground clearance — the gravel sections are rough and river crossings occur on some route variants. Key sections: Puerto Montt to Hornopirén: The last paved section, terminating at the ferry crossing to Caleta Gonzalo. Chaitén: A town partially destroyed by the 2008 eruption of the Chaitén volcano — the ruined buildings alongside the rebuilt town are an extraordinary juxtaposition. Puyuhuapi: A tiny fjord settlement with the finest thermal springs in Chilean Patagonia (Termas de Puyuhuapi, accessible only by boat from the village). Coyhaique: The midpoint services hub — fuel, accommodation, and the only proper supermarket for several hundred kilometres. Villa O'Higgins: The road's southern end — from here, the only continuation is by boat across Lago O'Higgins and then trekking into Argentina.
Car Rental Patagonia: What You Need
Most major rental agencies in Bariloche, Puerto Montt, and Punta Arenas offer 4WD vehicles suitable for both routes. Specify explicitly that you intend to drive the Carretera Austral and/or the unpaved Ruta 40 sections — some rental agreements prohibit gravel road driving and will leave you uninsured for breakdowns on these sections. Hertz and Europcar both have Chilean and Argentine operations allowing cross-border rentals (with advance notice and a specific cross-border permit, typically $50–100 extra). A full-size spare tyre is essential; inspect it before departure. Carry a compressor, a basic tool kit, and enough fuel to cover 400km between fill-ups on the most remote sections.
