The best mid-range base for the marble cathedrals section of the Carretera Austral — a simple, warm, and excellently-run lodge in Puerto Río Tranquilo, the small town on Lake General Carrera from which all marble cathedral kayak tours depart. The owners operate one of the best kayak tour companies on the lake and can arrange all regional excursions. After a cold day on the glacial water, returning to a proper hot shower, home-cooked Patagonian dinner, and a warm bed makes a significant difference to the Carretera experience.